A Travellerspoint blog

Buenos Aires is much more than good air

what we eat, where we buy, how we live and why we love it.

sunny 25 °C

Coming back was truly a breath of fresh air: the tree lined streets, the chirping of the birds, huge mosquito bites, lovers kissing at every corner and even the smog of these ancient city buses felt like home again. At once, I reconnected with the fellow portenas and portenos that make up my life here and it felt wonderful.

Sunday we indulged in a great breakfast at Quimcombo on Costa Rica & Armenia with what was the most authentic pumpkin ravioli, handmade with love in butter and honey sauce. What could be better? The company I was with, a bunch of wonderful friends who make it all worth it. Sundays are never complete without a round of retail therapy to heal anyone, albeit temporarily. We covered the shopping areas of Palermo and somehow I found nothing. Everything is timing and timing is everything. Come dusk, we put on our urban asks and went to Isabel, BA's coolest and chicest spot where all one will find is a bunch of well bred locals, which I personally love. I found myself chatting with a rather interesting guy and actually enjoyed it. Of course, the encounter was followed with the classic Argentinean guy's charm, an sms "good night gorgeous". Does it ever end!?!?

And yet, the following morning was opened with a wring at my heart again. No time for moping, I took myself to Belgrano and walked the lovely neighborhood, reminiscent of my weekend strolls as a kid on the Upper East Side. Seriously, the beauty of this neighborhood cannot be captured on camera. It just has to be experienced. The tall trees just reach up to the sky and the leaves shade the calles, letting the sun peek in and it feels just like Paris. My dear friend Shak texted me just in time for lunch, and it was off to the land of "Oui Oui", a place you would never, ever come across until you sought the road less taken. Having met this place back in June, I was thrilled. The place has seating areas outside and it so relaxed and charming and sweet. Inside, the place looks is really a home-like, warm kitchen perfumed with the aromas of dulce-drenched muffins, waffles, cheese cakes, chocolate croissants decadent tarts. From our love of food, we moved on to discuss our love of love and all of the trials that come with it, a sea full of them, sometimes with no answers. All this, over a dulce-filled pie and Earl Grey tea served in 60's style dishes grandmothers love to use. We loved it. It was perfect.

We strolled SoHo and found our plan for tomorrow.

I was on a rampage of life! The evening brought another round of coffee with other friends at Voulez Bar on Cervino St., a gorgeous little boulevard just behind Republica de la India, or basically, the Zoo. What was once a local supermarket was renovated to a cafe and underground restaurant that looks incredible. To give the illusion of windows, they designed European style shutters illumnated to resemble a street lamp light peeking inside. It's amazing and really resembles a place where the intellectual come to debate on life, politics and ways of the world. And that's what we did as well.

In the spirit of NY Chinese takeaways, I parted from the lovely guys and ventured back to my friend's to enjoy one last dinner with all the girls and Leti who was flying back to France the next day. In between dipping eggrolls into Argentinean sweet & sour sauce, we summed up our new friendships with some tears, big promises to visit one another and a FB group - kitsch, I know, but appropriate.

Shak and I deecided it was time to reconnect to ourselves. We found a great Yoga studio, ValleTierra on Costa Rica that proved to be the remedy we needed to refresh and restart. It was great and I was ridiculously proud for having done a yoga class in Spanish. I learned to breathe in and out in a way I never knew before and the sounds that came out resembled those of an ocean. I felt very, very happy. We headed to Bar Seis to check out the lunch and were pleasantly surprised. The place filled up with local hippies and artsy types that I always love to look at and wonder what they're thinking.

It was there that in another deep conversation, I decided it was not time for Brazil. That gut feeling. Instead, I have chosen to stay in Argentina a bit more and head to Costa Rica & Panama in a couple of weeks. Rio will be kept for another time, in the near future but again, it's all the timing. And I cant explain it but it just felt right. One of those things. And when my brother texted me with thoughts along those exact same lines, I knew it was right. Intuition is a wonderous thing. It has the power to move things in the universe if you really, really listen hard. I was very motivated and my eyes started to sparkle.

We headed out to seek interesting things and came across a stunning boutique hotel, Ligado Mitico, that really is a dream out of a travel magazine. We lingered there for a bit and absorbed the atmosphere, the hospitality and the art. I indulged in a gorgeous silver wrought bracelet bound together by an oval topaz stone in the middle. Speechless. It had to be mine!

In BA, afternoons are meant for tea time and what a surprise awaited us at El Ultimo Beso. Heaven. Ok, a girl's heaven but heaven. Love oozing from every single item adorning this place and from every crevice in the walls. We each selected tea from the menus, named and inspired by sensual, romantic movies like Indecent Proposal, Ghost, French Kiss and others. Really cute. To match the teas of course, something sweet. Lemon pie and dulce de leche tarte. We couldn't roll our eyes back any farther from delight! It was in-cre-di-ble. That places makes you want to fall in love and somehow, everyone who came in after us was of the female kind, women sitting around these wrought iron pieces and French-style chaises talking about everything. Where are the men? Not here! I suppose I can understand why when you have chandeliers with dangling love letters above you, "I love you" dishes and cakes eyeing you, erotic books and the intoxicating smell of roses sticking to your clothes. It was great, really.

I was really feeling happy from the inside, being able to appreciate how lucky I am to be in this incredible place, experiencing these amazing things with such fantastic people. I am blessed.

Although I hadn't really kept the Passover tradition this year, I mean, Mendoza is not a place to deprive yourself of carbohydrates when you're downing wine all day long, I joined Nati and her family to a post-Passover dinner which was set in a beautiful home with nice people and a delicious menu. Again, I am blessed!

And this morning, my heart rang the memory bell, as if I should god forbid forget, and pushed up some feelings. I think that the energy burst of the last two days and my deep conversations with Shak were more powerful than we both realized. I believe that she is the answer to the letter I never wrote, asking for help and direction. An answer came today. I couldnt believe it. Only moments after my feelings got the best of me. Someone must be listening. You may think I'm crazy but I know for sure that the decisions and actions set forth this week were really, really significant. I spent my day getting to know a new friend from ASW (www.asmallworld.com) and it was great. This trip is really bringing in some great people into my life and along this journey. We lunched at Mark's best known for its salads, scoured for bargains and visited the Sybl Vane shoe shop on Armenia for the 10th time, coming out with yet another purchase at just under 200 pesos. You can never, ever have enough shoes. I parted ways with Julie and went to Carol's to greet the evening with a bottle of Malbec and cheese. Splendid.

This pretty much sums up the events of the past few days and I'm looking forward to what's in store.

Next destination? Probably land of the glaciers.

Buenos Aires is all that is passionate, unpredictable, exciting and inspiring.

Signing off at 12:54 from pleasant BsAs..


Posted by enoura 20:50 Archived in Argentina Tagged living_abroad

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