A Weekend at Estancia La Candelaria
08.04.2010 - 11.04.2010 26 °C
What better way to live like a portena than live spontaneously and book a weekend at an estancia. And not just any place, a castle. Castillo La Candelaria, an hour away from Buenos Aires. Saturday morning greeted us with a warm sun and blue skies and as Shak and I breezed through the kilometers, buildings turned to country houses to toll booths and to open fields, the fresh air whipping away our hair in the car. The car stereo jammed to tunes of the sultry Brazilian talent, Vanessa da Mata. It was perfect.
The estancia is located 115 kilometers away from the urban bubble. We took the car but transfers are also available right from the hotel. A day of fun here is priced at 165 pesos, a night at the cottage 400 and a room in the castle 500 pesos and includes lunch, afternoon tea and tartes, dinner and breakfast. Why not, right? We came just in time for lunch and checked into the lunch room, marked with our name. The salads were nice and the highlight of the meat dishes was definitely the asado. We closed off with a wonderful flan and gaucho dance, and one of the dancers followed me all the way to the ladies room to dance with me. It was actually hilarious.. Shak had to get in there after me and pull me out.
In the afternoon we checked into our room, already prepared for the old spirits. No haunted house here though. It was just a nice, sweet room from 1894 equipped with two mosquitos that decided to eat every edible and visible piece of my skin during the entire night. 48 hours later I am once again beaten up and scratched like I just walked out of the Amazon. Definitely bring insect repellent! As we walked to dinner and crosse the lawn, a gorgeous black sky adorned with stars shined down on us and it was truly one of the most amazing things I have ever seen in my entire life. Pitch black. A zillion stars. Shining down on us. I could actually see the aura of light of the galaxies. Definitely outdoes anything and everything I saw in Sinai. The scene was both incredibly spiritual, a wonderful moment to connect with this miraculous universe and also romantic to tears. All there is is the feeling of wet grass beneath your feet, silence and a huge open sky shining down on you.
Anything I saw after this only downgrades this blog after trying to describe the beauty of the moment. But still, dinner was OK and satisfying. Breakfast was much better, in the castle´s dining room and out-of-touch Moroccan style chandelier which honestly, was a truly disconnected accessory in this entire castle. Dont know what they were thinking about when they put it up! Nevertheless, everything about breakfast was great.
Horseback riding with the gauchos was rather nice, although somewhat tiring. I wanted to gallop away into the open plains of the Pampas, feel the wind against my skin and feel like a warrior, holding on to dear life. But that didnt happen! No... just a calm relaxed ride around the estate. Nice, but definitely left a taste for the real thing. Polo lesson perhaps?
We drove back to the city, in somewhat silent anticipation to get back to the congested life... an urban dweller´s phenomenon that may never be explained clearly or ever understood. We made our way to yet another delicious spot, Tea Connection, where all the blends and drinks ar made of 100% natural ingredients and the food is as , fresh and tasty as a homemade meal. It was wonderful! The place is on Uriburu and the corner of Pena and tends to get packed with people enjoying the food and the WiFi on the way. Occasionally, there are even some good looking folk to refresh the eyes.
In the early evening I hit Palermo Soho with some friends and it is just one of the best places in the world that I truly, truly love. You just have to be here to understand what good weather, good food and good looking people bring together in Argentina. It could bring world peace, even if temporary! In the evening though, I could definitely feel that autumn is well in the air and in full throttle, especially when Las Canitas (Baez St) goes to sleep earlier than usual, which is what happened when Martin and I went for a drink.
The next days brought on internal debate on the road ahead. More on that soon.
Besos from rainy BA tonight.